To ensure a successful installation, please read these easy-to-follow instructions before beginning your installation project.


*Tape Measure

  • Level • 3/16″ Drill Bit
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Step Ladder
  • Patching Plaster
  • Extension Cord
  • Pry Bar
  • 2 “C” Clamps*
  • Electric Drill • Hammer
  • Phillips Head Screw Gun
  • Handsaw
  • Chalk Line
  • Carpenter’s Square
  • #2 Square Drive Bit
  • Wood Shims for shimming cabinets up from floor, out from the wall or down from the ceiling


  • Shut off the water lines to the sink.
  • Shut off the gas and electricity to appliances.
  • Move all appliances (stove, oven, refrigerator, dishwasher, etc.) out of the kitchen to provide more working room.
  • Remove sink.
  • Remove old cabinets, countertops, baseboards and any molding when they interfere with cabinet installation.
  • Remove old floor covering, if replacing floor.


Remove all doors, drawers and shelves from cabinets to allow you to clamp cabinets together for installation. Check for uneven floors and walls, as this will affect the installation. Locate these uneven areas and then shim cabinets to make the installation plumb, true and square.


Using a straight length of 2 x 4 and a carpenter’s level, check the floor for “high” spots. Check all around the room within 22″ of the walls where you will be installing the base cabinets. Once you have located the highest point on the floor, strike a level line on the wall all around the room from this point of the floor, using your level and chalk line. (See illustration.) We will call this the “Base Level Line.”


Mark the outlines of all wall cabinets on the wall to check actual cabinet dimensions against your layout. Using a straight 2 x 4, check the walls for uneven spots. Wall unevenness can cause misaligned cabinets resulting in “racking” or misalignment of the doors and drawer fronts. Remove high spots by scraping or sanding off excess plaster. Shim low spots with thin pieces of wood or shingles.


Wall-framing studs should measure 16″ on center for most homes. Use a stud finder or tap on wall to locate a “solid” sound. This generally will give you the location of the wall-framing studs. You can verify this location by driving a finishing nail into the wall. Make sure you do this in an area that will be covered by the wall cabinets. You can also check for studs near receptacle outlets. Mark the location of all the studs on wall surfaces.


To make installation easier, you should install wall cabinets first. If you are unable to use the 1″ x 2″ furring brace, then use the 54″ above finished floor line as a visual reference point. Raise the cabinets to this point, and use a floor “T” brace made from scrap lumber.


When installing a full-overlay cabinet, we recommend using a filler or starter strip next to the wall or soffit. This will allow doors and drawers to open fully without hitting molding around doors and out-of-square walls.

NOTE: If you are installing a wall blind corner cabinet, make sure you pull the cabinet out from the corner the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan.

CAUTION: When measuring the wall space, be aware that cabinets with front frames overhang the “box” by 3/16” on each end. Any measurements on the wall must coincide with the front frame measurements of each cabinet.

IMPORTANT: If you are using decorative handles, it may be necessary to add a filler to the wall blind corner cabinet on the adjacent cabinet and to “pull” the wall blind corner cabinet farther out of the corner. This will provide a 90° opening capacity for the adjacent cabinet doors.

Transfer the measurements of stud locations to the inside top of the wall cabinets. Measuring down 3/4″, drill 7/32″ pilot holes at each stud location mark.

Now, lift the cabinet into place and support the bottom. Using the supplied screws and a screw gun with a #2 square drive bit, fasten the cabinets to the wall. Now, mark the stud location 3/4″ up from the bottom inside cabinet. Drill 7/32″ pilot holes at each stud mark and fasten the cabinet to the wall. (Note: 36″ and 42″ cabinets require additional screws through the center hanging rail.) Do not thoroughly tighten the cabinet to the wall until you have fastened the next cabinet to the first one, checked for levelness and shim if necessary. Take the next wall cabinet and repeat the installation procedure.

Once you have mounted the two cabinets, use your “C” clamps to clamp the vertical frame members (stiles) tightly together, being careful to line up the bottom horizontal edges. Now, drill a pilot hole through the stile of the first cabinet into the stile of the second cabinet. Using the screws supplied in the installation kit, draw the two stiles tightly together. (A little wax on the screws will help seat them easily.) You can now remove the “C” clamps.

Continue installing the wall cabinets next to each other in a similar manner. When you have fastened several cabinets in the line together and have checked for levelness, you can thoroughly tighten the screws holding the cabinets to the wall.

When installing wall cabinets, it is important to secure all cabinets together. If a wall cabinet hangs on the wall where both ends are open, it is extremely important to secure this cabinet to the ceiling or soffit studs with four (4) lag bolts (not supplied) through the front frame and top panel on both sides.

If there is no soffit or ceiling above the cabinets, you must install a support or decorative leg through the bottom of the cabinet to the countertop on both open ends for support. If this is secured properly to the studs at the top and bottom, the cabinet will be completely supported. Failure to follow securing instructions outlined in this paragraph could result in cabinets falling off the wall!


If it is necessary to use a filler, place the filler or fillers at the ends of the cabinet runs or next to the blind corner cabinets, rather than between cabinets in the middle of the run. You
should cut fillers or extended stiles to fit the space.

Cut valances to fit the space left between the cabinets. If you have a scalloped valance, find the center, mark half of the space required between the cabinets, then cut from both ends to maintain the same measurement on each side of the centerline. Attach valances by drilling and screwing through the stiles or end panels of the adjacent cabinets.


First, put the base cabinets in place starting with the corner cabinets. If you are using a base blind corner cabinet, pull it out of the corner to the proper dimension, as shown on your kitchen layout. Shim this cabinet up to the high spot line previously located. NOTE: Fulloverlay framed-style blind corner cabinets with decorative hardware must be pulled out 3″ from the corner to provide a 90° door opening. If you will not be installing decorative hardware, you only need to pull it 1 1/2″ from the corner to provide a 90° door opening. In both situations, you must install a 3″ or 1 1/2″ filler to the cabinet adjacent to the blind corner. Base blind corner cabinets may be pulled as necessary. Each base blind corner comes with a 3″ filler that must be used as an extension of the adjacent cabinet to provide necessary door and drawer clearance. If using a base lazy susan cabinet, apply a 1″ x 2″ furring strip to both walls at the proper height to support the countertop. You should screw these strips to the studs to provide support for the countertop once installed into the corner. It is usually better to fasten at least one cabinet in both directions to the lazy susan. Be sure you have shimmed them properly and attach the countertop brace described above. Once you have positioned the corner cabinet into the corner, use the stud marks on the wall to locate the position of the screws for mounting the base cabinets to the wall. Drill a hole at the stud location through the back rail of the base cabinet approximately 3/4″ from the top and into the stud. Attach the cabinet to the wall with the screws provided inside each cabinet. Be sure to use the shims under the cabinet base to bring it up to the level line, established previously. Install the next cabinet in the same manner. Using your two “C” clamps, clamp the stiles tightly together, making sure the horizontal frame member rails form a level and straight line. Now, drill a pilot hole through the frame stile of the second cabinet. Use the screws supplied in the inside of each cabinet. (A little wax on the screws will help seat them easily.) Draw the two stiles tightly together. You can now remove the “C” clamps. After you have securely fastened all base cabinets to the wall, reinstall doors and drawers, and check each for proper alignment. If a drawer front does not rest flush against the front frame, recheck each cabinet, assuring they are both vertically and horizontally level.


Base cabinets that are not secured to a wall stud (such as an island or peninsula application) must be secured to the floor with wood blocks behind the toe kick and on each side of the cabinet. To prepare blocking, place the cabinet in the desired location and mark the floor at all exposed ends of the cabinet. Cut 2×4 wood blocks 8-12″ long to fit the underside of the cabinet. Measure the thickness of the toe kick or sides, and position the blocks inside the markings on the floor so the cabinets can be positioned over them. Fasten the blocks to the floor. Attach the cabinets together following the applicable attachment procedures for shimming, leveling and attaching face frames, then use finish nails to attach the cabinets to the blocks on the floor.


At times, you may have to fine-tune your cabinetry after the installation. After all the cabinets have been installed plumb and level, place doors and drawers back on the cabinets. Install doors and make hinge adjustments so reveals between doors and drawers are equal. Make these adjustments before installing pulls or knobs



We construct our cabinetry with several types of durable, high-performance hinges that will operate smoothly and silently for years. Periodically, you should tighten hinge screws, because they can loosen over time with normal use. For specific adjustments, refer to the following pages.

NOTE: Make adjustments with a hand-powered screwdriver to help eliminate over tightening, sometimes caused by power screwdrivers.

We use several different cup hinges on our cabinetry. The overlay (concealment of the frame) for that door style dictates the exact design. As shown here, simply loosen the screws (1) (attach the hinges to the frame) and move the door up or down to the desired position. For in or out adjustments on cup hinges, turn the cam screws (2) clockwise to move the door in or counter-clockwise to move the door out. For left or right adjustments, turn the cam screws (3) clockwise to move right and counter-clockwise to move left. (4) Onoff switch – to activate the soft-close put the switch in the “on” position by moving it toward the (-) symbol, “off” position – switch is moved towards the (o) symbol. On-off position allows you to control the rate of speed at which the door closes. When moving from the on to off position, the door must close one cycle for the feature to engage.

Installation Guide